Costume & Construction

Where do I rent a victorian Pram?

gothypants — Sat, 23 Mar 2013 09:48:27 -0400

Unfortunately, I have no idea, but I am pleased and honored that this is the type of blog that you’d ask that sort of question. :)

I hope you find a lovely one! If I ever end up with a baby, I will definitely be investing in one for walks about town.

ritasv: ‘Jason and Madea’ by John William Waterhouse

gothypants — Sun, 17 Mar 2013 10:45:55 -0400

ritasv:

‘Jason and Madea’ by John William Waterhouse

historicalfashion: Portrait of a Lady with a Book, Next to a...

gothypants — Wed, 13 Mar 2013 22:01:26 -0400

historicalfashion:

Portrait of a Lady with a Book, Next to a River Source, by Antoine Vestier, 1785

I just can’t resist the sheer stripey silk goodness of her gown. Brilliant.

Nice sleeve puffs!

Francis the sweet pit bull, helping me cut out the fabric for my...

gothypants — Tue, 08 Jan 2013 21:37:08 -0500

Francis the sweet pit bull, helping me cut out the fabric for my Lord of the Rings-inspired gown. :)

I’m loving this blog post on black chemise gowns! And...

gothypants — Wed, 02 Jan 2013 08:25:20 -0500

I’m loving this blog post on black chemise gowns!

And check this out: Regency-era mourning and funeral mementos!

1830s Shift: Pattern and Example

gothypants — Tue, 01 Jan 2013 17:45:00 -0500

I did some work on the pattern for my 1830s/40s shift/chemise today, based on the Workwoman’s Guide instructions from 1838.

I decided that instead of reproducing the Workwoman’s shift exactly, I wanted to alter the instructions slightly to copy a shift identical to the pattern below, an 1835 shift from the collection of the Victoria and Albert Museum in London:

First, I read the Workwoman’s Guide instructions, which are in yards and “nails,” an antiquated measurement that is about the size of an index finger from the tip to the largest knuckle, aka 2.25”. There are 16 nails in a yard (36”). I translated all the nails/yards measurements to inches, to get an idea of the size of the various pattern pieces I would need to cut out.

I decided to make the second-smallest size. Interestingly the Workwoman’s Guide lists the sizes from the largest to the smallest. What a change in perspective from today!

I then cut out small pieces of extra fabric, to mock-up how the shift would go together (note: pieces are not to scale):

Here you can see the gores that are cut out from the top of the shift, which are sewn to the bottom to make a triangular/polygon type of shape.

The Workwoman’s Guide helpfully gives the measurements for the shoulder straps. I decided that rather than follow the WG’s instructions to make a single piece of fabric into a shift, I would alter the pattern to include separate shoulder straps, sewn onto the straight seam at the bosom and back. I also decided to make the sleeves puffy and sewn to a band at the cuffs (band not present in the model below), rather than straight sleeves like in the Workwoman’s shift.

You can see how it all fits together:

Below I’m sewing on the last part, the gores underneath the sleeves:

And the pattern-mockup is finished. Now I’ll go about making a human-sized, hand-sewn version (without all the raw edges ;) !

Whenever I’m making a pattern from measurements only, I always find it’s easier to work out the confusion in half-scale, or even quarter-scale. Easier to work with, easier to sew, etc. You can use this technique to do flat pattern-making from any standard book you’d find in fashion school. It saves a lot of money on fabric! Then, when you have the pattern figured out and you understand it all, you can make it in a bigger size and make only minor adjustments.

Next up: sewing the real thing!

1830s Shift from the Workwoman's Guide: Resources

gothypants — Mon, 31 Dec 2012 01:30:00 -0500

Time for a new historical reproduction project! For frugality’s sake, I’m using an old bedsheet to make my next 1840s shift, which I am hand-sewing as a part of the Historical Sew Fortnightly’s first challenge, “Starting Simple”! (Hey, it’s kinda like calico, sort of! ;) But honestly I just love the idea of re-using cloth rather than throwing it out. Besides old bedsheets are super soft and comfortable). My goal is to sew the shift exclusively by hand, using period-accurate stitches that are detailed in the Workwoman’s Guide.

I’m just figuring out the sizes and whatnot now (yes… I’m a bit behind schedule for the HSF challenge, which is due tomorrow!). It seems like a great project to do while I wait for the black acid dye for my Lord of the Rings dress to come in the mail from Dharma Trading Co.

Following is a collection of resources to sew an 1830s/40s shift (aka chemise), following the directions in the Workwomans Guide from 1838.

Workwoman’s Guide, by A Lady — illustrated plates and written instructions:

A great page of 1830s shifts and drawers, including a link to a diagram for the Workwoman’s Guide shift superimposed on an 1830s shift in the MFA Boston collection:

http://pinterest.com/bygoneglamour/1830s-shifts-drawers/

Some great construction notes on shifts from this period and slightly earlier:

http://bygoneglamour.wordpress.com/tag/shifts-chemises/

LotR Gown : Helpful Resources

gothypants — Sun, 30 Dec 2012 17:55:00 -0500

In the course of making my gown, I’ve found these resources to be helpful. I’ll be adding to them as I continue working on the gown, as well, so watch this space!

Base Pattern:

http://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/patterns/sewingpatterns.pl?patternid=4459#.UN92TEL3A1h

Vat Dying silk with acid dyes:

http://www.dharmatrading.com/html/eng/11262333-AA.shtml?lnav=techniques_tubdye.html

Reproductions and studies of Arwen’s mourning gown:

How to wear a veil:

And finally, a nice collection of reenactment images including many beautiful gowns:

http://pinterest.com/maellen/historic-reenactement/

In Progress: LotR-Inspired Dress

gothypants — Sat, 29 Dec 2012 18:33:29 -0500

I gave in to a long-standing urge to make a Lord of the Rings-inspired dress after seeing The Hobbit last weekend! Of course like everyone else, I love Arwen and Galadriel’s various dress designs the best (and the Elven outfits in general).

I decided to make it easier for myself by basing the gown on a pre-made pattern (figuring that I’ll save my pattern-making efforts for historic reproductions. :) I used Simplicity 4940, which is kind of a generic “elven costume dress” kinda pattern that came out after the first trilogy of movies.

So far I’ve made up the basic pattern, leaving off the weird collar/yoke thing, in some cream-colored silk dupioni that I had lying around:

I’ve ordered some black acid dye from Dharma Trading Company, because of course my elven dress needs to be some sort of a gothic elf. ;) Once that’s dyed, I’ll put on the finishing touches — some ribbon and trims at the neck probably, decorations at the shoulders, etc.

The pattern calls for a zipper at the back of the dress. While I like the ease of getting in and out of a dress via zipper (after historic reproductions, you take conveniences seriously), I think it might look nicer if it were laced up in the back instead (with an invisible zipper on one side under the armhole). I might try to make a faux lace-up back, with machine-sewn grommets kind of like I did on my wedding dress. Front-lacing gowns are actually more historically accurate for medieval kirtles (not that this is intended in any way to be related to an historical garment, nor is it a kirtle), but I actually think I prefer the lacing in the back, aesthetically.

I also did some research on headwear that would go with this dress. My current hairstyle is quite “punk rock” and wouldn’t really suit the look, I don’t think! That’s ok — veils and circlets to the rescue! I think something like this would look great:

But of course, in black to match the dress. ;) Looks like it would be easy to make, too.

What do you guys think?

Princess Irulan and her entourage, Dune. David Lynch, 1984. I...

gothypants — Tue, 25 Dec 2012 22:24:00 -0500

Princess Irulan and her entourage, Dune. David Lynch, 1984.

I love the costuming in this movie. Very 19th century Russian. Inspiring!

Black Friday is for Mending!

gothypants — Fri, 23 Nov 2012 11:24:00 -0500

Instead of buying new clothing on Black Friday, I decided it would be relaxing to spend the day mending and darning the clothing we already own.

I like the idea of being responsible to the earth, combatting the “fast fashion” concept of cheaply produced, low quality, planned obsolescence clothing you find in retailers like Forever 21 — where items are purposely manufactured so that they will hardly last past the first washing.

My goal with personal clothing is to try to own a modest amount of well-made, well-designed clothing, good quality pieces, and handmade if possible, treated with care and meant to last.

An exception to my rule of mending clothing is with antique items.

I take special care when trying to mend antique clothing that I have in my study collection — if I mend it at all. With Victorian or Edwardian clothing, I usually try not to alter anything about the piece unless it’s dire, to preserve the integrity of the item as much as possible. By mending or changing an old piece, you may be obscuring clues to its construction!

If I do occasionally make changes to particularly damaged garments, I try to mimic the style of stitching on the garment, thread type and color, size of the stitches, etc. When in doubt — it’s best to let it be.

Happy Black Friday — what are you spending the day doing today?

Photo

gothypants — Sun, 18 Nov 2012 10:43:52 -0500

A Wedding Gown for a Turkish Princess

gothypants — Mon, 22 Oct 2012 11:33:00 -0400

I recently had the opportunity to make a wedding dress for my dear friend, the photographer Seze Devres. We’ve been friends for eight years and it’s hard to put into words what she means to me.

Seze got married to another amazing and creative person, Bryan, on the beach in a remote part of Turkey. I am proud to be friends with both Bryan and Seze and they make an amazing match together!

The dress was designed mostly by Seze, though I had some input in terms of fabric choices, trim, and some pattern suggestions. The Greek/Turkish ancient goddess style was all her, though!

Like many things designed collaboratively and iteratively, it turned out looking different but even more amazing than the original plan. I think Seze looks like a young Elizabeth Taylor in these photos — part Greecian goddess, part 1960s high society New York debutante. Perfect for this NYC couple!

We ended up leaving the hem ballgown length, and I think the effect worked on the sand. Very romantic and unexpectedly formal.

The bride made her own veil and headpiece!

The back is a deep V, leading into the waist.

We originally started with a thin ribbon around the waist, but Seze suggested a thick ribbon that really worked with the design much better. I think it adds a feeling of luxury!

The back is folded obi style, for a formal and put-together look.

The fabrication is silk chiffon overlay, with a thick charmeuse under-slip that’s actually a separate piece entirely. The slip looks a bit 1930s on its own, and can be worn as a slinky sort of evening dress.

Here is a somewhat wrinkly photo of the chameuse under-slip as it was being made:

I draped the dress on the form with gauzy muslin, basically, and then took it of and made a pattern from that, slightly adjusted to make the straps less bulky with fabric, etc.

For a touch of understated glamor, we decided on art deco-inspired rhinestone accents at the straps of the dress. I think it came out beautifully and is somehow very reminiscent of New York City (where the bride and groom live):

What a picturesque couple, and a gorgeous, gorgeous bride! I love how happy they are in the rural Turkish landscape.

Best wishes for a wonderful life, Seze and Bryan!! <3 <3

ornamentedbeing: c.1845–49 Met

gothypants — Wed, 29 Aug 2012 20:10:57 -0400

ornamentedbeing:

c.1845–49

Met

How To Make a Hand-sewn Bow Tie

gothypants — Sun, 05 Aug 2012 23:48:48 -0400

How To Make a Hand-sewn Bow Tie:

handwork:

Here’s my completed bow tie, created at the Parlocraft Circle this Saturday!

It was surprisingly easy to make, so I’m posting instructions here for anyone else who wants to have a go!
…

NYC Victorian Parlorcrafts Circle: Make Your Own Bow Ties!

gothypants — Thu, 02 Aug 2012 01:46:16 -0400

NYC Victorian Parlorcrafts Circle: Make Your Own Bow Ties!:

handwork:

This is the always dapper Mr. Noam Berg — also known as the steam-folk musician Painless Parker — modeling some of his handmade bow ties, suspenders, and arm braces!

Come listen to self-described ‘amateur seamster’ Noam talk about how he learned to make these gorgeous…

1840s dress.

gothypants — Sun, 29 Jul 2012 17:11:35 -0400

1840s dress.

c. 1845 dress from Fashion Institute of Technology collection. I...

gothypants — Sun, 29 Jul 2012 17:10:29 -0400

c. 1845 dress from Fashion Institute of Technology collection.

I love how fitted and severe the mid-1840s style is. It’s really put together!

Cotton dress, circa 1840, American. From the Costume Institute...

gothypants — Sun, 29 Jul 2012 17:02:49 -0400

Cotton dress, circa 1840, American. From the Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art.

1837 French cotton wedding dress. From the Metropolitan Museum,...

gothypants — Sun, 29 Jul 2012 17:01:17 -0400

1837 French cotton wedding dress. From the Metropolitan Museum, Costume Institute.